Use warm-up speed, heater output, and temperature-data plausibility to decide whether the engine is truly running cool or only reported cold by the sensor path.
That is the whole fight in this branch. A thermostat stuck open makes the engine genuinely struggle to reach temperature. A sensor or wiring fault can make the PCM think the engine is cold even when the block, hose temperatures, and cabin heat say otherwise.
Slow warmup from a true cold start, weak cabin heat in cool weather, highway temperature drop, and P0126 or P0128 behavior all make a stuck-open thermostat much more believable. This is the classic engine-runs-too-cool pattern, not an overheating one.
P011A and P2183 mean the controller does not like how multiple coolant-temperature signals agree with each other or with operating conditions. That can happen because one sensor is biased, because low coolant leaves one sensor reading strangely, or because circulation and warm-up are genuinely abnormal.
P2184 often creates a false-hot electrical story, while P2185 often creates a false-cold story that can mimic thermostat trouble. The key is not to trust the code label alone. Compare actual warm-up behavior, fan operation, and heater output with what the scan data claims.
If the engine truly warms slowly and the heat is weak, thermostat and coolant level move high on the list. If the data looks irrational, the fans behave strangely, or one sensor disagrees with physical reality, widen the diagnosis toward sensor bias and wiring before replacing cooling-system parts blindly.